Isla del Sol, Bolivia

What is it? Where is it?

Isla del Sol is an island with absolutely stunning views in Boliva, South America. Specifically, the island sits in the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca and is about a one and a half hour (slow boat) ride from the main land. Shut your eyes and fall asleep to the steady throb of the motor, it’s well worth the trip.

I was there in the winter, call me naive, but I was oblivious to the fact that it gets cold, like really cold in South America. For some reason I thought it was all continually warm weather, Latino music and lots of dancing.

Wrong! In a, my finger nails are turning purple, kind of way. But, Isla Del Sol or Island of the Sun really has earned its epithet. Yes, very cold at night and if a storm is rolling in. But when they sun comes out, which is does with a pleasing regularity, it not only basks you but it also basks the islands various land forms and the surrounding waters in an impressive (and great for photos) mesmerizing light.

My advice is take a path, any path and see where it leads you. Anywhere is going to afford you views you’ll be content to stand and look at indefinitely. It’s not a big island but there are still many paths to follow and sites to see.

If the sun does happen to duck behind a cloud. Or if that turbulent looking storm in the distance starts to roll in. And you start to freeze.  Don’t worry there’s many a small cafe to stop and get a hot drink at.  The hot chocolates were sublime.

We got caught in the rain a few times but as long as you have on a few layers of thermals (or maybe only one layer if you’re more used to non-tropical climates, unlike me) and have a good rain-wind jacket it’s still pleasant wandering around the rocky paths.

How To Get There

You’ll depart from Copacabana, a small town on the Bolivian mainland. There are various boat companies with their jetties sitting in close proximity to the eye-catching landmark, White Anchor.

Tickets can be bought from the copious amounts of travel agents dotted all around Copacabana.

The fare as of July 2019 was equivalent to $5 us, one way. You have to buy your return ticket at a small shed to the right of where you land on the island. They only open the shed for sales an hour or two before departure.

I tried to buy my return ticket on arrival so I could be guaranteed a seat but there was nobody selling them. It all works out.

High season makes the boats fairly loaded with passengers, so book ahead and get there early. The poor unfortunates that were late boarding had to find space on the roof.

Which was fine until they had to move below decks once it began raining and find space to sit on the floor.

It took us about 1.45 minutes to get to the island partly because it took a while to get the big motor started and we ran on the small outboard for a while.

Yumani

Is the town on the island you’ll disembark at unless you’re going onto The Moon Island.  Apparently, it carries on to Moon island and returns to Isla Del Sol, but this was just an explanation from a local on the boat and not something I experienced myself.

You’ll know you’re on the right island because of the huge sun god statue. You might also see donkeys hanging out on the small beach here and you will most likely encounter dogs. But don’t worry they are laid back, non aggressive types. They’ll welcome a friendly pat or are just as happy to lay at your feet and help you soak up the sun.

You will however, definitely, be approached by local ladies here when you arrive. The island fee is 10 Bolivianos (about $1.45 us) and these ladies are your chance to pay this fee. It allows you entry to the Inca sites on the island so keep hold of it.

The Climb

Then, it’s time to make the climb! There’s no alternative. To get to the majority of accommodation you are going to have to climb. Apparently the number of steps that take you up in a direct ascent past the statue are 714. That’s just the start but has a nice rest spot beside a communal water source where you can check out your first views.

From there most of the islands’ accommodation is to the right and upwards and onward along wet cobble-stoned paths. Depending on fitness and the required destination this walk can take anywhere from 20 to 60 minutes.  There’s plenty of stop-off points to, check out local merchandise, view the continually broadening horizon or buy a drink or snack.

All over the island the locals cheerfully respond to your ‘hola’ and ‘buenos’ dias. And there’s always plenty of llama and donkey photo opportunities along your way.

And the views, there’s always the beautiful views.

• There are no ATM’s on the island so bring enough money, actually bring more than enough because you never know when you might need that extra hot chocolate or llama wool sweater.
• Wear sturdy, waterproof shoes to help you out on the uneven cobbled paths.  At 10.30 am when we arrived, the previous nights ice was running off the roofs and slopes forming rivulets all over the rocky paths and steps.
• We stayed at Hostal Inti Wayra which has beautiful views and heavily blanketed beds but no hot water for showering. Breakfast is what appears to be the staple in Bolivia, puffed wheat with fruit and yogurt, pancakes and cocoa tea, coffee or hot chocolate.